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Example Projects
  • Action Figure Motion-Capture
  • Aluminum Foil Tilt Sensor
  • Amplified Pillow Speaker
  • ATTINY POV
  • Beaded Tilt Sensor Swatch
  • Data Logging Broach
  • DIY Arduino Data Gloves
  • DJ Hoodie
  • DressCode Dress Shirt
  • DressCode Examples
  • DressCode Necklace
  • DressCode Vest
  • Eeontex Projects
  • Fabric JoyPad
  • Granny Square MIDI
  • Jenny’s Playlist Costume
  • JoySlippers
  • Jumpsuit for actionman
  • Interactive KnitBook
  • Massage my feet
  • Multiplexed Pillow
  • Musical Pillow
  • Neoprene LED Light Pouch
  • Openwear Finger Bend Sensor
  • Piano T-Shirt
  • Capacitive LED Fower
  • Puppeteer Costume
  • Puppeteer Gloves
  • Sensitive Fingertips
  • Sensor Sleeve
  • Silent Pillow Speaker
  • Solar T-Shirt
  • Solar T-shirt II
  • Star Light
  • Stretch Sensitive Bracelet
  • Tilt Sensing Bracelet
  • Time Sensing Bracelet
  • Touch Sensitive Glove
  • TrafoPop LED Jacket
  • Voodoo Sensor Doll
  • Wearable Sound Experiment
  • Wearable Toy Piano
  • Wearable Waste of Energy
  • Wireless JoySlippers
  • Wireless Tilt Sensing Bracelet
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    Content by Mika Satomi and Hannah Perner-Wilson
    The following institutions have funded our research and supported our work:

    From 2013-2014 Mika is a guest professor at the eLab at Kunsthochschule Berlin-Weissensee

    From July - December 2013 Hannah was a researcher at the UdK's Design Research Lab

    From 2010-2012 Mika was a guest researcher in the Smart Textiles Design Lab at The Swedish School of Textiles

    From 2009 - 2011 Hannah was a graduate student in the MIT Media Lab's High-Low Tech research group led by Leah Buechley


    In 2009 Hannah and Mika were both research fellows at the Distance Lab


    Between 2003 - 2009 Hannah and Mika were both students at Interface Cultures
    We support the Open Source Hardware movement. All our own designs published on this website are released under the Free Cultural Works definition
    Example Projects

    DressCode Dress Shirt

    DressCode is a sound reactive circuit based on PIC, developed by Seb Madgwick, Vincent Akkermans, Sophie McDonald and KOBAKANT. It has 3 output pins that gets activated as the environmental sound changes. It has auto gain feature so it adjust to the general sound amount of the environment. (for example, if you go to a loud club, it can still catch the music beat)

    In this example project, I am making a dressy shirt which includes few LED light that reacts to the sound. As I could not find the shirt I like, I am making a shirt from scratch.. If you have a shirt you like, you can start from existing shirt. (I will try to upload the shirt pattern soon…) I bought a half transparent scarf at 2nd hand store. This will be the diffuser and main decorative element of the shirt.

    First I started with making mounting for SMD LED. You can also directly solder SMD LED to the conductive thread (not all the conductive thread, but KarlGrimm’s thread can take heat and can solder on it). I used flexible copper board, etch it with the desired shape mask and cut it with scissors. (please see this post for detailed DIY flex PCB making). I made the design to indicate the LED direction: pointy side or 2 hole side is the GND.

    Then I started to mark where the LED be placed, and how they will be connected using tapes.

    Then I started to stitch the connections with conductive thread. Here I am experimenting few different stitching techniques, back stitch, chain stitch, sewing machine (conductive thread as bobbin thread) and couching. I have also tried using conductive fabric and fuse on the base fabric.

    Sometimes the connections needs to jump over the other traces. As conductive threads are not isolated, you need to use some kind of isolation to avoid two thread touching each other. I am using glass bead in this example. You can also use fabric and fuse it, nail enamels.. so on.

    After all the traces are stitched, I started to add the LED mounted on the flexible PCB. You can sew it just like buttons. Make sure the LEDs + and – directions are correct. When you add the LED on the middle of the stitched traces, stitch over few times with conductive thread first, make sure that your new thread is now electrically connected with the trace and stitch with the LED.

    I am always making a knot at the end of the thread or when I finish the stitches, which makes hairy end like this picture. Often this causes shirt circuit as it starts to fray very much. I used fabric patch with fusible (iron on glue) to cover them so they do not fray and touch other thread any more.

    The finished circuit looks like this. I forgot to take a picture before assembling the shirt together.. but I first finished the circuit, then assembled the shirts, added the scarf on the outer layer.. and voilà! it is done.



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