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  • FT1: Tailoring with Electronic Textiles II
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  • School of Wicked Fabrics: FOUNDATION /02
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    Content by Mika Satomi and Hannah Perner-Wilson
    E-Textile Tailor Shop by KOBAKANT
    The following institutions have funded our research and supported our work:

    Since 2020, Hannah is guest professor of the Spiel&&Objekt Master's program at the University of Performing Arts Ernst Busch in Berlin

    From 2013-2015 Mika was a guest professor at the eLab at Kunsthochschule Berlin-Weissensee

    From July - December 2013 Hannah was a researcher at the UdK's Design Research Lab

    From 2010-2012 Mika was a guest researcher in the Smart Textiles Design Lab at The Swedish School of Textiles

    From 2009 - 2011 Hannah was a graduate student in the MIT Media Lab's High-Low Tech research group led by Leah Buechley


    In 2009 Hannah and Mika were both research fellows at the Distance Lab


    Between 2003 - 2009 Hannah and Mika were both students at Interface Cultures
    We support the Open Source Hardware movement. All our own designs published on this website are released under the Free Cultural Works definition
    Workshops

    FT1: Moving Fabrics with Electrons

    January 2020, hosted jointly by Interface Cultures and Fashion and Technology departments at the Art University Linz, Austria

    * * * This workshop is only open to Art University Linz students. Students should only sign up for this course if they can commit to attending the full schedule (see bellow). * * *

    In this year’s Fashionable Technologies introduction course we will investigate electricity as a source of magnetism and textiles as materials that can translate electro-magnetic forces into movement and sound. Following short introductory sessions on topics such as conductive materials, textile techniques, soldering, electromagnetism, amplification and arduino programming, students will spend time learning to build their own textile actuators as well as further exploring possibilities. The results of this exploratory process will be captured as swatches and documented on swatch pages.

    Download 74 swatches >> https://kobakant.at/downloads/swatchbooks/20-FT1swatches.pdf
    Photos >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/plusea/albums/72157712652409521


    INTRODUCTION to ELECTROMAGNETISM

    ELECTROMAGNETISM (FULL SHOW)
    >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bht9AJ1eNYc

    min 19:40: Left Hand Rule for Coils

    Maxwell, The history of Electromagnetism – Documentary
    >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfKBKb7Uc9s

    Electromagnets

    An electromagnet is simply a coil of wire. It is usually wound around an iron core. However, it could be wound around an air core, in which case it is called a solenoid. When connected to a DC voltage or current source, the electromagnet becomes energized, creating a magnetic field just like a permanent magnet. The magnetic flux density is proportional to the magnitude of the current flowing in the wire of the electromagnet. The polarity of the electromagnet is determined by the direction the current. The north pole of the electromagnet is determined by using your right hand. Wrap your fingers around the coil in the same direction as the current is flowing (conventional current flows from + to -). The direction your thumb is pointing is the direction of the magnetic field, so north would come out of the electromagnet in the direction of your thumb. DC electromagnets are principally used to pick up or hold objects.
    (from http://www.coolmagnetman.com/magelect.htm)

    An electromagnet is a type of magnet in which the magnetic field is produced by an electric current. The magnetic field disappears when the current is turned off. Electromagnets usually consist of a large number of closely spaced turns of wire that create the magnetic field. The wire turns are often wound around a magnetic core made from a ferromagnetic or ferrimagnetic material such as iron; the magnetic core concentrates the magnetic flux and makes a more powerful magnet.
    (from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnet)


    Magnetic field produced by a solenoid (coil of wire). This drawing shows a cross section through the center of the coil. The crosses are wires in which current is moving into the page; the dots are wires in which current is moving up out of the page.


    The magnetic field lines of a current-carrying loop of wire pass through the center of the loop, concentrating the field there

    Simple coil experiment


    MEET THE MATERIALS

    Karl-Grimm copper and silver conductive threads >> karl-grimm.de/
    Copper plated ripstop conductive fabric >> statex.de/
    Steel conductive thread >> bekaert.com/

    Fusible interfacing (iron-on heat glue) >> https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000Y0083K/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=heat+n+bond&qid=1578903614&sr=8-8

    Enameled wire, magnet wire:
    >> https://www.conrad.at/de/p/block-kupferlackdraht-aussen-durchmesser-inkl-isolierlack-0-10-mm-1-pckg-0-10-kg-605034.html
    >> https://www.conrad.at/de/p/block-kupferlackdraht-aussen-durchmesser-inkl-isolierlack-0-15-mm-1-pckg-0-10-kg-605053.html

    Neodymium magnets
    >> https://enesmagnets.pl/shop/en/permanent-magnets/neodymium-sintered/ring-magnets/

    Magnetic beads
    >> https://www.crystal-creative.com/de/perlen/magnetperlen/

    Nail varnish

    Arduino Uno

    Breadboard

    9V battery
    (beware of shorts between wires! cut leads to different lengths or tie knot in one to avoid)

    1W resistors
    datasheet >> https://cdn-reichelt.de/documents/datenblatt/X400/DS_PO_SERIES_VIT.pdf
    datasheet >> https://cdn-reichelt.de/documents/datenblatt/B300/RSF-RSMF_ENG_TDS.pdf

    Transistors
    NPN: 2N2222 datasheet >> https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/P2N2222A-D.PDF
    PNP: 2N3906 datasheet >> https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/2N3906-D.PDF
    MOSFET: IRLU8743 datasheet >> https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/irlr8743pbf.pdf?fileId=5546d462533600a4015356719c7e26ff

    ICs
    L293D/NE (H-Bridge) datasheet >> https://cdn-reichelt.de/documents/datenblatt/A200/L293NE-TI.pdf


    EXAMPLES

    FLIP-DOTS
    Flip-Dot Swatch Example >> https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=5915
    Fabric Flipdot with H-Bridge >> Fabric Flipdot with H-Bridge
    Flip-Dot Fabric (work in progress) >> https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=5878

    FLAPS
    Flapping Wing Swatch Example >> https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=5900
    Flapping Wings >> http://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=8058

    JUMPS
    Jumping in a Ring >> http://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=8063

    FABRIC SPEAKERS
    Fabric Speakers >> https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=2936
    Fabric Speaker Swatch Example >> https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=5935
    Woven Speaker >> https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=5509
    Knit Speakers >> https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=4465

    TEXTILE MOTORS
    Motor on a String >> https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=5185

    OTHER
    Magnetic Fur >> https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=4463


    TRANSISTOR SWITCH

    To turn on the flap or amplify the sound for fabric speaker, one can build transistor switch. Arduino’s digital pins give out only 40mA max, which may be not enough for the flap to go up. (you can see slight move, but not the whole range of movements like when you connect 5V directly). In the workshop, we used both the N channel mosFET (IRLU8743) and NPN transistor (2N2222) and both works fine with the coil we were building.

    Print
    https://www.kobakant.at/DIY/?p=6118


    SCHEDULE

    Wed 8.1., 2 – 4 PM: Introduction for all interested students (IC space)
    Thur 9.1., 11-17:00: Technical introductions and working time (FAT space)
    Fri 10.1., 11-17:00 Technical introductions and working time (FAT space)
    Sat 11.1., 11-17:00 Working time (FAT space)
    Sun 12.1. 11-17:00 Working time and final presentations (FAT space)


    TO PREPARE
    we ask each student signed up to attend the course to prepare two images or slides and give a short 2-3 minute presentation.
    1x image of a project you have made that you really like
    1x image of ideas/work, that you are currently working on or interested in

    you can make a PDF file with 2 images, or 2 jpeg images in a file. if you like, you can also include a movie. We expect each person’s presentation to be 2-3min.
    please upload your material to provided link by january 7th.


    TO BRING
    – sewing set (sewing needle, pins, sewing thread, scissors)
    – scissors, cutter knives (for paper…)
    – pliers, wire cutter (if you have)
    – Arduino Uno + USB cable (if you have)
    – laptop


    INSPIRATIONS

    CHIJIKINKUTSU
    Nelo Akamatsu
    >> http://www.neloakamatsu.jp/chijikinkutsu-eng.html

    Chowndolo
    Giacomo Lepri
    >> http://www.giacomolepri.com/

    Chowndolo from Giacomo Lepri on Vimeo.

    Not North
    Irene Posch, Talia Mukmel
    >> http://www.ireneposch.net/not-north/

    The Embroidered Computer
    Irene Posch, Ebru Kurbak
    >> http://www.ireneposch.net/the-embroidered-computer/

    Draping Sound
    EJTech
    >> http://ejtech.cc/?page_id=1379

    Draping Sound from ejtech on Vimeo.

    Phase In, Phase Out
    EJTech
    >> http://ejtech.cc/?page_id=814

    Chants Magnétiques
    Claire Williams
    >> http://www.xxx-clairewilliams-xxx.com/projets/chants-magnetiques/


    Sound Embroidery
    Claire Williams
    >> http://www.xxx-clairewilliams-xxx.com/projets/sound-embroidery/



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