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  • School of Wicked Fabrics: FOUNDATION /01
  • School of Wicked Fabrics: FOUNDATION /02
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    Content by Mika Satomi and Hannah Perner-Wilson
    E-Textile Tailor Shop by KOBAKANT
    The following institutions have funded our research and supported our work:

    Since 2020, Hannah is guest professor of the Spiel&&Objekt Master's program at the University of Performing Arts Ernst Busch in Berlin

    From 2013-2015 Mika was a guest professor at the eLab at Kunsthochschule Berlin-Weissensee

    From July - December 2013 Hannah was a researcher at the UdK's Design Research Lab

    From 2010-2012 Mika was a guest researcher in the Smart Textiles Design Lab at The Swedish School of Textiles

    From 2009 - 2011 Hannah was a graduate student in the MIT Media Lab's High-Low Tech research group led by Leah Buechley


    In 2009 Hannah and Mika were both research fellows at the Distance Lab


    Between 2003 - 2009 Hannah and Mika were both students at Interface Cultures
    We support the Open Source Hardware movement. All our own designs published on this website are released under the Free Cultural Works definition
    Workshops

    School of Wicked Fabrics: FOUNDATION /01


    August 6-11, 2018 at KOBA

    Explore the Material

    collect samples and make a page for your swatch book.

    Please check:
    How much resistance?
    What are the characteristics? (physical/ electrical)
    Does it change its conductivity? if so how, what is the changing range?

    Multimeter

    We can not see the electrons flowing. So we can not tell by looking if there is an electrical connection, or how much electrical resistance between one end to the other end of the circuit or a material.
    To measure this, we use a tool called multimeter. This will be your friend throughout the workshop. Here is how to use it.

    Check connection
    connection check
    turn the dial to arrow/sound sign. Place the probe to the to end of the part where you want to check the electrical connection. If there are connection, it will beep.

    Check Resistance
    multimeter
    Turn the dial to ohm mark part. there are few numbers on the ohm part, start from the smallest, or if you know roughly how much it should be, start with closest one. If it is on the diral 200 ohm, it means it will measure the resistance maximum 200ohm. If the resistance is bigger than 200ohm, it shows 1. like in the picture. In this case, turn the dial to bigger maximum range (for example 2000, or 20k (20,000)) to see if you start to see a number.
    multimeter

    multimeter
    Here is an example on how to read the measured resistance. The dial is set to 20M ohm (20,000,000 ohm), and you see 2.19 in the display. Where the period is shows the scale (if it is Mega or Kilo or without any scale). Since you are on Mega scale, this is 2.19 Mega Ohm (2,190,000 ohm). This is a bit confusing as if you are on 200k ohm dial and see 3.8, it is still 3.8 Kilo ohm (3,800 ohm). The number on your dial is not a multiplier. It just shows which scale you are in, and what is the maximum reading range.


    A small intro to electricity

    (the below explanation comes from “Getting Started in Electronics” by Forrest M. Mims III)

    Electricity, Potential and Current

    atom
    This is a Lithium atom. Lithium atoms have 3 electrons that encircle a nucleus of 3 protons and 4 neutrons.
    – Electrons have a Negative electrical charge
    – Protons have a positive electrical charge
    – Neutrons have no electrical charge

    ion1 ion2
    Normally an atom has an equal number of electrons and protons. The charges cancel to give the atom no net electrical charge. It is possible to dislodge one or more electrons from most atoms. This causes the atom to have a net positive charge. It is then called a positive ion. If a stray electron combines with a normal atom, the atom has a net negative cahrge and is called a negative ion.


    Free electrons can move at high speed through metals, cases and a vacuum. Or they can rest on a surface.
    A stream of moving electrons is called an electrical current.


    A light-emitting diode (LED) is a two-lead semiconductor light source. When a suitable voltage is applied to the leads, electrons are able to recombine with electron holes within the device, releasing energy in the form of photons. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode)
    There are two things we have to take care when using LED.
    – LED has polarity. Make sure to connect LED in correct direction.
    You can tell the direction as the positive side usually has a longer leg, or a smaller triangle lead in the epoxy lens.

    How much voltage and current does LEDs require to light up?
    It depends on the LED and you will need to check its datasheet to know exact specification. The voltage you need is called “(forward) voltage drop” and the current required is called “forward current”. Most of the normal (not super bright) LEDs light up somewhere around 2-2.5v and require 20-30mA.

    – You will need to limit the current to suitable range.
    you can read here “why?” >>
    To limit the current, you need to add resisters in your circuit. You can calculate it yourself using Ohm’s law, or use online calculators like this one >> http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz

    e-Textile LED circuit

    When circuit is completed and current flows through the LED, it will light up. we can create this circuit using conductive textile materials.

    Prepare the LEDs to sew-able shape.
    curing LED legscuring LED legscuring LED legscuring LED legs

    Embroidered Circuit
    knot the end of the thread so it does not slip off.
    embroidered led circuitembroidered led circuit

    Start with “-” connection to the battery. This will be placed on the middle of the battery holder.
    embroidered led circuitembroidered led circuit

    sew through the LED curled leg like button holes and knot the end. Make sure to cut the thread. You can apply a bit of nail polish to prevent the knot from fraying.
    embroidered led circuitembroidered led circuitembroidered led circuitembroidered led circuit

    start with the other side of LED and continue to the battery holder. sew the edge of the battery holder few times. this will be “+” side of the battery connection. Sew around the battery holder’s edge with normal thread to place the battery holder onto the base fabric.
    embroidered led circuitembroidered led circuitembroidered led circuitembroidered led circuitembroidered led circuit

    When you place the battery in battery holder (make sure the + is facing the + mark side of the pocket) the LED lights up. You can experiment with other types of stitches to enhance your embroidered circuit.
    embroidered led circuitembroidered led circuit

    You can add several of LEDs in parallel to the battery. Note that in this example, only the Orange and Green LED is lighting up. This is because voltage drop of Blue LED is higher and as it is connected without “current limiting resister” for each LEDs, it does not get enough voltage. When mixing up different colors of LED in one circuit, make sure that you add current limiting resister (it can be resistive textile material), or chose similar voltage drop LEDs.

    embroidered led circuitembroidered led circuitembroidered led circuit

    Fused Conductive textile LED circuit
    fused led circuit

    Cut conductive fabric that has fusible interfacing on one side. peel off the backing paper and place it on base fabric. Make sure the iron is set to “2”. Especially the silver stretch conductive fabric does not take higher heat.
    fused led circuitfused led circuitfused led circuit

    Edges can be folded togheter.
    fused led circuitfused led circuitfused led circuit

    cover a part of the “-” side of battery connection with non-conducitve fabric.
    fused led circuitfused led circuitfused led circuitfused led circuit

    Add LED
    fused led circuitfused led circuitfused led circuitfused led circuit

    One can make this circuit with stretch conductive fabric. Then the whole circuit can be stretched, but the electrical function will remain the same.
    stretch led circuitstretch led circuit



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